Once the part to be treated is dry, we proceed to its smoothening. With it we will smooth the putty still fresh, to leave it without bumps and guromos and as smooth as possible so as not to have to sanding so many imperfections. The drying time of the putty is about 40 minutes.Ī very important trick, which will save us hours and hours of sanding, is to smooth the putty (before drying) with a brush impregnated in acetone. Leave it to dry and proceed to sand it so that it is uniform. To extend it, we can use a rubber spatula and leave it as smooth as possible. We will do it little by little and not on the whole surface at one time since, as we have said, it will not give us time and the putty will begin to harden, and very careful since as they apply it is how it is going to stay. We start applying putty on the outside of the helmet.

Be very careful with this because it acts very fast and in 3-5 minutes approximately begin to notice how the putty is hardening and every time we find it more complicated to apply it on the surface of the helmet.

When we buy putty, it comes with a catalyst, an agent that we add in a 2% mixture that causes it to harden as much as a stone. This process is the most laborious of the whole project, so we must arm ourselves with enough patience and lots of sand. In my case I used normal polyester putty. There is the option to buy it with fiberglass included. The next step is to cover our already hardened model with polyester putty, or also called automotive trimmer. This process has to be done very fast to prevent the fiber from drying out before it picks up the shape we want.

I did it following this tutorial, where it is explained to us that we must cut it into small pieces and stick it to strokes with acrylic resin. Next, and to provide our hunt of a good hardness and consistency, we will apply a layer of fiberglass.įiberglass can be applied in several ways. For the inner layer we will do a similar process: remove the sticks and apply a first layer of acrylic resin to have a consistent base. With this we already have the outer layer of the Bio-Helmet of Predator completely dry and hard. To avoid it, 2 cross-shaped sticks on the inside of the helmet, we give a layer of resin on the outside and wait for it to dry. As the resin is liquid the paper will be moistened for a moment and we can deform the model that has cost us so much paste. Once the paper mold is ready, touch it to harden it with acrylic resin, which can be found in any paint shop.

Pepakura mask pattern